Conclusion

Through this project I have tried to push my boundaries’ through pushing my idea’s further. It past projects I have struggled with having to narrow of a concept/theme, so for this project when I eventually set myself a concept I made it broad, giving me room to explore and research different areas of the ‘distorted reflection’ subject. This project has also put into perspective where I think my work fits in the fashion industry and who contextually I am inspired by. On reflection I would manage my time better so I would have a larger and more substantial final collection, but I feel that the final collection is very successful in the quality of the knit and within relation to my brief and subject matter of distortion. I feel like I have communicated my idea’s well from visual to practical work (knit) I think the balance of colour through my collection is very successful in that the grey doesn’t make the sample dull, as I have balanced it with highlighted areas in the shades of peaches, blue and light silver colours. I also think that my technical ability especially on the dubied knitting machines has improved greatly during this project allowing me to expand the techniques in my collection and this will also help me as I carry on through to unit X. 

Final Collection

 A/W 15

Collection on Mannequin

Branding Project Final Collection

This is my final collection. I feel that with the colour balance and the use of techniques it fits the Mark Fast brand but also gives it a fresh new edge – I feel I’ve put my own stamp on it. Some of my samples are unfortunately small however I think they are all successful. On reflection if I had more time I would have explored more channels of technique- made samples bigger and pushed my colour palette further. This brief has made make work with materials i.e. Lycra that I wouldn’t normally use or be comfortable with using, which has helped and influence my practice project in a positive way in that I feel I can take the ideas from the Branding Project and use them in my own project. 

Mood & Brand Awareness Boards

Brand Awareness Board

Moodboard

Branding Project

Continuing sampling for Mark Fast I have started to consider how the sample from my collection will fit on the body. This sample in particular is made to sit with the gap under the bust – the ‘mid-drift’ style. The colour in this sample I took inspiration from his spring/summer 14 collection gently adding and blending the colour in. I used Lycra to shape the gap and pull it in.

Sampling - Branding Project

On starting to sample for the Mark Fast branding project I found it difficult to use the Lycra on the domestic machine. After a few hiccups of it falling off the machine I finally mastered the use of it. However, I found that I had to cast on very wide, as the Lycra shrank back once off the machine, which caused the samples to be more time consuming. This sample in particular although effective shrank down once off the machine. The colours – particularly the added green wrapped in give a warmness to the sample. I used the casting off and on technique and E- Wrap in this sample, I think this sample is very successful – although small and I intend to use it as part of the final collection.

Branding Project Development

Taking the idea of a ‘opened and closed structure’ I have started to look at the concept of using the honeycomb structure combined with the Mark Fast ‘style’ of the use of lycra together. I also will use these initial images as a source for my colour palette.

Using the shapes and colour as inspiration I will push this forward to create a small collection on knit samples for the Mark Fast brand.

As Mark fast primarily uses the domestic knitting machine I will use it for most of my sampling but will have added input of the dubied machine as I feel with the use of lycra you get a more professional finish on the dubied. 

Live Brief

My chosen live brief is ‘The Branding Project’ which requires me to research into a brand of my choice, and producing a sketchbook of research, mood boards and a final outcome. My chosen brand is ‘Mark Fast’ I have chosen Mark Fast as I feel his work is different to mine, his use of lycra makes his work sculpt the body and he is known for his ‘open garments’ clothing with a lot of ‘holes’ and open spaces. 

On researching all his collections, I took interest in his latest spring/summer collections. I particularly like his s/s 2014 range, his collection is very punk esc – hip and alternative. I noticed that through the collection he adds more colour – from greys to bright colours, some garments being very colourful. I like how the colour comes in gradually, sort of fades in. 

As lycra is important in relalation to his brand I intend to use it in my project. I intend to kick start this brief through the idea of an ‘open and closed structure’ which I feel his garments are, they are very detailed in areas, and then are open in other areas of a piece. 

Developing Samples

 This week I have started to work on the dubied knitting machine, mixing the ripple and ribbing techniques together, this sample is I feel successful but if I were to do it again I would change the placement of the rib slightly higher rather than in the middle. I will take forward the way the knit expands on the ripple as it gets closer to the ribbing. 

I have also started to work with the possibility of manipulating the knit once off the machine. On this technique I used the technique ‘Smocking’ stitching parts of the knit together. This created a ‘ripple’ in the knit and the colour followed the movement within the smocked area. I intend to use this technique in my final collection as I feel I can shape the knit how I want it to within relation to my research easily. 

Developing Samples

I also want to experiment with wire in knitting in this project, so using the dubied machine I started to insert wire using the inlay technique, I used a stiff wire so it was easy for me to mould it the way I wanted. Once knitted I was able to shape the knit myself, I used it to make a waved effect that I have in my research. But I need to consider if the wire is wearable, if I take this forward as a design in my final collection I need to find a way of the wire being safe to wear, as the ends could cut into anyone wearing it. There is also the option of using a finer wire, which would not have as much effect as the thicker wire but would give me mean to manipulate the knit still. I also need to take into consideration if the wire is secure enough – will it fall out of the knit? (sample below)

Initial Samples

From my research I have started to experiment with techniques on the domestic knitting machine that I feel link to the shapes in my research. I also have carefully considered my yarn, I have decided to use mercerised cottons for the shiny/reflective quality, using mohair for use of blurring lines and wools in parts to add stability. On choosing my yarns I had to consider the intent of my collection. I want my collection to be an Autumn/Winter range, so the use of wools I feel was needed. I also need to consider my colour proportions, I don’t want to focus too much on the greys, therefore making my knit dull. 

In this sample I have used the hooking up technique. This created a wave in the colours therefore giving the illusion of movement. I think the colour proportions in this sample are not quite right though as the sample, particularly the black and white are look quite stripy, I think this could be resolved with adding mohair and then brushing it to merge the colours together.

In this sample I also used the hooking up technique, but used fewer colours, I find that if I added more peaches to this it would become warmer – more rich in colour giving it a better quality.

Water Reflection

Looking more at the overall landscape (skyline) of a city, I am interested to see why what means they are reflected. I have started to think of things that reflective, the more obvious is water. Many city’s sit next to water and through research I found photographs of those that reflect into water.

Although the colours in these photographs don’t work or relate to my own colour palette, the concept of the city merging into water – morphing and distorting the reflection does. 

Focusing on the reflection in the water itself, the way the water speckles and waves as a light on the water is an interesting effect, it is a reflection that you can’t tell what it is. It also alike how I created my photographs changes with movement, water movement in this instance. From this I intend to take the highlighted aspect and translate into my practical work (knit).

Reflection Marks

 To capture the shapes and linier quality throughout my drawings I have painted out the wavy, moving line which I have pulled out of parts than run throughout my different interpretations. Using black as a base colour I painted onto acetate, therefore giving me the opportunity to layer the paintings to see what effect it has.

I also added wire to the layers. I made small wire ‘sculptures’ focusing on the shapes in my photographs, using different size wires depending on how faint the line is. 

The harshness of the wire next to the blurred quality of the paint gives an interesting contrast. On reflection I could have used more colours from my colour palette – the peach colours next to the wire and harshness of the black would add a warmer aspect to the layered pictures as a whole. 

Clare Tough

Clare Tough is a knitwear designer. Her collection are interesting because the knit is varied – parts chunky and part fine, her work is almost like a patchwork, with pieces of knit joint together – it looks as if you don’t know how it fits or where pieces place until there put on the body. 

She also uses a lot of colour in her latest collections, something that I am working use more of in my work.

Her work is different and alternative, it isn’t commercial at all, which I feel where my work sits, the fabrics I create aren’t for the high street, the areas her work is placed – put on a catwalk or worn by alternative celebrities or even used on model shoots.

Her work gives me the idea of joining pieces of my knit together – creating a change in direction, relating to my distorted photographs.

Reflection Development

Continuing to use my city photographs, I further explored ways to distort them through reflection. Holding them at an angle away from aluminium paper, they created this image. 

The photographs are also momentary and change with the way you move – I created the photograph myself and could have easily changed the shape and colour balance.

The colour pallete in these photographs is one I intend to take forward to my practical work, the shades of peace, grey and black are interesting balance with highlights from the snippets of blue and silver. My yarn choices will be considered on the basis of the balance between the reflective aspect and the colour balance.